Should concealer be lighter than foundation? MUAs explain

Should concealer be lighter than foundation? It sounds like a simple enough question, but the answer depends on what you want it to do. For many of us, concealer is that one desert island product we could never be without – a makeup kit essential that can hide all signs of a late night, brighten the under-eye area and give skin a fresher look.

Bobbi Brown, legendary makeup artist and founder of Jones Road, says “a good concealer should lighten and hide under-eye darkness” – but its talents don’t stop there. The right formula can also camouflage blemishes, even out discolouration and strategically highlight the face, sometimes with little need for foundation at all. Getting the most out of it, though, comes down to one thing: choosing the right colour. Ahead, the experts explain how to find your match – and when going lighter is the right call.

Should concealer be lighter than foundation?

As a general rule, it depends on what you’re trying to achieve. “I don’t believe in one concealer shade doing everything,” says Bernicia Boateng, Estée Lauder UK Makeup Artistry Partner. “If you’re concealing blemishes, pigmentation or areas of discolouration, I’d always recommend staying as close to your foundation and natural skin tone as possible.” The aim, she explains, is for your concealer to disappear seamlessly into the surrounding skin rather than draw attention to the area.

Brown agrees that going lighter can have the opposite of the desired effect when covering a blemish. “You never want to use under-eye concealer,” she says. “Since under-eye concealer is one shade lighter than your skin tone, it will only highlight what you want to hide.” For brightening, however, the rules change. Boateng recommends going slightly lighter “particularly underneath the eyes or through the centre of the face to create brightness and dimension.”

How much lighter should concealer be than foundation?

If brightening is the goal, both Brown and Boateng agree that around one shade lighter than your foundation is a good rule of thumb. As Boateng explains, “Glowing, natural-looking makeup is all just a play on light and dark,” and using a slightly lighter shade can help create that subtle dimension. “You can go a little brighter for a more glamorous, sculpted finish,” she adds, “but there’s a difference between brightening and simply looking too light.” The transition between your foundation and concealer should still feel seamless.

So, how can you tell if you’ve gone too far? If your under-eye area looks grey, ashy or noticeably disconnected from the rest of your complexion, particularly on deeper skin tones, Boateng says your concealer is likely too light or the undertone isn’t quite right. Equally, if an area you’re trying to brighten looks heavy, dull or creates a noticeable darker patch, you may have gone too deep.